Odessa is something else. A Russian empire city oozing history, elegance and past prosperity. As usual in Ukraine the contrasts are amazing-the tidy city centre echoes that of many historic cities in Europe and there are nice cafes and restaurants scattered around, but compare that with, just two or three streets away, open manholes, disintegrated pavements and almost non-existent lighting on the walk between one of the main attractions of the city and the centre. The attraction being the 'dolphinarium'-not something I'd have chosen to do had I been alone but I've always had a liking for sea things-dolphins and tropical fish and the like, so I enjoyed seeing both, although any place where animals are kept in Eastern Europe inspires a sort of dread. Anyway, Odessa is quality and I'm very glad to have got there.