Odessa is something else. A Russian empire city oozing history, elegance and past prosperity. As usual in Ukraine the contrasts are amazing-the tidy city centre echoes that of many historic cities in Europe and there are nice cafes and restaurants scattered around, but compare that with, just two or three streets away, open manholes, disintegrated pavements and almost non-existent lighting on the walk between one of the main attractions of the city and the centre. The attraction being the 'dolphinarium'-not something I'd have chosen to do had I been alone but I've always had a liking for sea things-dolphins and tropical fish and the like, so I enjoyed seeing both, although any place where animals are kept in Eastern Europe inspires a sort of dread. Anyway, Odessa is quality and I'm very glad to have got there.
Sunday, December 16, 2007
Lviv pictures
These are from June, but better than never I hope.
The railway station. The overnight train from Kiev deposited us around 6.30 in the morning. Dawn was met on the train by coffee, delivered by staff speaking Ukrainian and the playing of the Ukrainian national anthem over the radio.
"I'm in Europe!", I said to my friend by text message. 'When did I cross the border?', I thought.
View of the almost Italian-looking skyline from the top of the hill. My rubbish camera can't do it justice. Had a splendid meal at a cafe at the top.
The little flags are for 'Constitution Day'. Can you imagine little England flags on the buses for St, George's Day. If only . . .
Go to Lviv! It's the last one of these old Central European cities that hasn't been ruined by Ryanair and stag parties! So if you're having a stag party, don't go to Lviv!
The railway station. The overnight train from Kiev deposited us around 6.30 in the morning. Dawn was met on the train by coffee, delivered by staff speaking Ukrainian and the playing of the Ukrainian national anthem over the radio.Signs of Polish-Ukrainian friendship ahead of Euro 2012. Of course, to Poles, this is Lwów. In fact, if you can imagine, the city was in the north east of Austria-Hungary (under the name of Lemberg), then in south eastern Poland, then far far western USSR (Lvov), and now the patriotic stronghold of western Ukraine.
"I'm in Europe!", I said to my friend by text message. 'When did I cross the border?', I thought.
View of the almost Italian-looking skyline from the top of the hill. My rubbish camera can't do it justice. Had a splendid meal at a cafe at the top.
The little flags are for 'Constitution Day'. Can you imagine little England flags on the buses for St, George's Day. If only . . .
These people genuinely love being Ukrainian-a marked difference to elsewhere in the country.
Go to Lviv! It's the last one of these old Central European cities that hasn't been ruined by Ryanair and stag parties! So if you're having a stag party, don't go to Lviv!
Autumnal highlights
. . . and spring gave summer and autumn a miss and went straight on into winter
To misquote Monty Python. Maybe not quite true, but de-camping to England in mid-July was, weather wise, a mistake. I came back in September hoping to benefit from the Indian summer (old women's summer) that is common in this part of the world but had no luck there either. In late October temperatures plunged and they've not really recovered at all since. As I write the weather forecast for the next 2 weeks is a sea of blue, with the maximum temperature forecast is -2. But I've enjoyed the autumn here and thought I should put in some brief notes.
Obolon'
I've been blessed enough to be living this year in the slightly more refined district of Obolon', well, refined by Ukrainian standards. Although it's a clear 3rd behind the historic Podil and Pechersk districts it's noticeable here that the streets are cleaner, the supermarkets are better, and cars even slow down when you cross the road! I've had very few problems thus far with hot water etc. and it's been a big weight off my mind that everything seems to work.
Chernighiv
I've managed a couple of trips out of town since I got back. I went with a few colleagues up to Chernighiv, about two hours to the north by bus, heading towards the point where the borders of Belarus, Russia and Ukraine meet. It's good to be able to describe somewhere here, without reservation, as a nice place. People there are genuinely friendly, the city is leafy and surprisingly easy on the concrete. The kind of place one wouldn't mind starting a language school perhaps (?). These days one always visits these places with an exploratory feeling somewhere in the background. We also ate an entire carrier bag full of doughnuts.
The pleasant surroundings of Chernighiv
Clever reference to how 'VITAMIN' written in Cyrillic looks almost like the name of a superhero
To misquote Monty Python. Maybe not quite true, but de-camping to England in mid-July was, weather wise, a mistake. I came back in September hoping to benefit from the Indian summer (old women's summer) that is common in this part of the world but had no luck there either. In late October temperatures plunged and they've not really recovered at all since. As I write the weather forecast for the next 2 weeks is a sea of blue, with the maximum temperature forecast is -2. But I've enjoyed the autumn here and thought I should put in some brief notes.
Obolon'
I've been blessed enough to be living this year in the slightly more refined district of Obolon', well, refined by Ukrainian standards. Although it's a clear 3rd behind the historic Podil and Pechersk districts it's noticeable here that the streets are cleaner, the supermarkets are better, and cars even slow down when you cross the road! I've had very few problems thus far with hot water etc. and it's been a big weight off my mind that everything seems to work.
Chernighiv
I've managed a couple of trips out of town since I got back. I went with a few colleagues up to Chernighiv, about two hours to the north by bus, heading towards the point where the borders of Belarus, Russia and Ukraine meet. It's good to be able to describe somewhere here, without reservation, as a nice place. People there are genuinely friendly, the city is leafy and surprisingly easy on the concrete. The kind of place one wouldn't mind starting a language school perhaps (?). These days one always visits these places with an exploratory feeling somewhere in the background. We also ate an entire carrier bag full of doughnuts.
The pleasant surroundings of Chernighiv
I'm in love with Ukrainian ballet
I went to the ballet for the first time in my life in October. The cost was negligible by British standards, about 1 pound 50 for a seat 'up in thee Gods'. It was a ballet with a rather surreal storyline called Le Corsaire, with music by Adolphe Adam, who I can't confess to having heard of. But in this case the music took second place. I watched absolutely mesmerized as the surreal dreams of a drunken sailor, through rough seas and Arabic harems unfolded through the grace and poise of the dancers. I never knew this was something I could get into, but I've since been again, to La Sylphide and watched the beautiful dainty fairy's wings pop off and her dead body being carried away. I'm well into this.
Dynamo Kyiv-officially the worst team in Champions' League history
It sounds wonderful to be settled in a city with regular Champions' League football, but this year's CL campaign rivals England's Euro 2008 qualifying campaign for wretchedness. If you don't want to know the score (or don't care about football) look away now:
AS Roma (A) Lost 2-0
Sporting Lisbon (H) Lost 2-1
Manchester United (H) Lost 4-2
Manchester United (A) Lost 4-0
AS Roma (H) Lost 4-1
Sporting Lisbon (A) Lost 3-0
0 points.
Of course the 'pick of the games' was the home game against Manchester United, but I found this to be a slightly surreal occasion. English football has rocketed in popularity over here in just the last 2 or 3 years, and whereas a few years ago teams from all over Europe came here just to be turned over (for example, as Arsenal were 3-1 way back in 1998, and 2-1 in 2003), now there is an unhealthy amount of respect for the opposition. It didn't help that UEFA safetaphobia had closed off both ends of the stadium, and it also probably didn't help that they'd put up the ticket prices too 100 UAH. That's just 10 pounds, which is obviously a bargain for watching Man U play by English standards, but pricey for a lot of the locals. The crowd was full of people who had turned up to admire Fergie's boys. The Dynamo Ultras in one corner, whilst doing their team proud, resembled more a group of vociferous away fans. Of the 4-0 away defeat, Alex Ferguson said "Kiev came with the intention not to get too embarrassed", a comment I've not heard him make about any other team. Ukraina tv actually dropped the final game from their schedule.
Respublikansky stadion with 'Манчестер Юнайтед' the visitors
Clever reference to how 'VITAMIN' written in Cyrillic looks almost like the name of a superhero
Wednesday, October 17, 2007
Thursday, April 05, 2007
Grave concern
On the list of surreal things I've seen in my life, this one is right up there.
One of the company classes I teach is at a fairly swish, new office block in town. It's a somewhat incongruous glass and steel building in amongst the charming brick buildings in this part of town, but unfortunately very much par for the course in this part of the world. Anyway, when I was there on Monday I noticed large, dark shiney blue and purple curtains being hung up. A bit dark and foreboding but not much in itself. However, when I arrived for my class yesterday morning I had to double take as I walked-"isn't that . . . a coffin". The first split-second was spent ascertaining that there was no one in it, and it turned out that the entire lobby has been handed over to become an undertaker's showroom selling what looks to be fairly expensive hardware, complete with a tall and scary looking dark-suited gentleman. The staff of TNK-BP now have to walk through this every day on their way in. Perhaps it doesn't hurt to have a daily reminder of the inevitable. The thing is, my students are at least as shocked as I am about it all. Apparently the building has been bought by a tycoon who wants TNK-BP to relocate. Is this his strategy one wonders?
One of the company classes I teach is at a fairly swish, new office block in town. It's a somewhat incongruous glass and steel building in amongst the charming brick buildings in this part of town, but unfortunately very much par for the course in this part of the world. Anyway, when I was there on Monday I noticed large, dark shiney blue and purple curtains being hung up. A bit dark and foreboding but not much in itself. However, when I arrived for my class yesterday morning I had to double take as I walked-"isn't that . . . a coffin". The first split-second was spent ascertaining that there was no one in it, and it turned out that the entire lobby has been handed over to become an undertaker's showroom selling what looks to be fairly expensive hardware, complete with a tall and scary looking dark-suited gentleman. The staff of TNK-BP now have to walk through this every day on their way in. Perhaps it doesn't hurt to have a daily reminder of the inevitable. The thing is, my students are at least as shocked as I am about it all. Apparently the building has been bought by a tycoon who wants TNK-BP to relocate. Is this his strategy one wonders?
Ukraine is not dull
Protestants
On Friday someone said to me "there's going to be another revolution on Saturday". However, when Saturday came it was more of a political rally, or rather two political rallies. Pro-Russian prime minister Yanukovich had bussed in 80 busloads of 'protesters' from Eastern Ukraine. The pro-western opposition supporters gathered during the afternoon in the now infamous independence square. Bizarrely, it seemed that most of these people had in some way been paid to attend these events. You never know if this is true or just cynical sniping from the other side, although there was a fairly convincing story of a guy who came up from Donetsk and was promised 20 dollars for protesting and, as you can imagine, was then not paid. As a friend said to me "they'll vote for him anyway-they're like sheep!" The pro-Russian brigade have continued to protest throughout the week following President Yushchenko's decree that parliament be dissolved, on the grounds that Yanukovich is illegally strengthening his majority in parliament through defections. In Ukraine, under the constitution, MPs are not free to switch sides as they are in, say, the UK. This is almost certainly because MPs here can be easily 'bought' by various means. The President says he had no choice. On the one hand I thought he shouldn't be steamrollering a democratically-elected government just because it's one we don't like. On the other hand, when you look into it you pretty soon find gross distortion of a fragile and vulnerable system. If the President doesn't act soon, another chance might not come. So let's hope the constitutional court rules in his favour. New elections would take place at the end of May.
On Friday someone said to me "there's going to be another revolution on Saturday". However, when Saturday came it was more of a political rally, or rather two political rallies. Pro-Russian prime minister Yanukovich had bussed in 80 busloads of 'protesters' from Eastern Ukraine. The pro-western opposition supporters gathered during the afternoon in the now infamous independence square. Bizarrely, it seemed that most of these people had in some way been paid to attend these events. You never know if this is true or just cynical sniping from the other side, although there was a fairly convincing story of a guy who came up from Donetsk and was promised 20 dollars for protesting and, as you can imagine, was then not paid. As a friend said to me "they'll vote for him anyway-they're like sheep!" The pro-Russian brigade have continued to protest throughout the week following President Yushchenko's decree that parliament be dissolved, on the grounds that Yanukovich is illegally strengthening his majority in parliament through defections. In Ukraine, under the constitution, MPs are not free to switch sides as they are in, say, the UK. This is almost certainly because MPs here can be easily 'bought' by various means. The President says he had no choice. On the one hand I thought he shouldn't be steamrollering a democratically-elected government just because it's one we don't like. On the other hand, when you look into it you pretty soon find gross distortion of a fragile and vulnerable system. If the President doesn't act soon, another chance might not come. So let's hope the constitutional court rules in his favour. New elections would take place at the end of May.
Monday, March 19, 2007
Dodgy textbook
I challenged my teenage advanced class to come up with the dodgiest local textbook they could find, and they have not disappointed me. Here are some of my favourite extracts so far:
"You can get ahead start".
For fellow teachers/grammarians:
"On June 28, 1996 the Supreme Rada of Ukraine has adopted the Constitution of Ukraine". (ouch!)
Whilst reading a book:
"I idly turned the leaves".*
*in Russian leaves and pages is the same word.
A typical Soviet English conversation:
Customer: One loaf of white bread, please.
Shop-assistant: Sorry, but it isn't fresh.
Customer: What is fresh?
Shop-assistant: Only buns are.
Customer: Two buns, please.
Shop-assistant: Here you are. 10 copecks, please.
:)
"You can get ahead start".
For fellow teachers/grammarians:
"On June 28, 1996 the Supreme Rada of Ukraine has adopted the Constitution of Ukraine". (ouch!)
Whilst reading a book:
"I idly turned the leaves".*
*in Russian leaves and pages is the same word.
A typical Soviet English conversation:
Customer: One loaf of white bread, please.
Shop-assistant: Sorry, but it isn't fresh.
Customer: What is fresh?
Shop-assistant: Only buns are.
Customer: Two buns, please.
Shop-assistant: Here you are. 10 copecks, please.
:)
Friday, March 09, 2007
Winterreise
I've written very little on here for some time, so I thought I'd give a quick rundown of a very short Ukrainian winter
"Don't think he knows about Second Christmas . . ."
It was a rare treat to enjoy not just one, but two Christmases, on the 25th (the 'real' one) and the Orthodox one. Not only that, but a week later I was told it was 'Old New Year'. This has something to do with the change of the calendar. By now I was getting really quite confused. A friend of mine in Belarus told me "don't be surprised if there's a third Christmas and New Year".
Journey into the unknown (and potentially uninteresting)
Another friend of mine was visiting at the time and we travelled on the suburban train to Nizhin (НІЖИН). It's only about as far as Peterborough is from London but it took a good two and a half hours both ways. It turned out to be a good place to visit, and someone we met on the train gave up their afternoon to show us around the town, university and churches. The Greeks were here apparently and it had given the place a bit of a Greek feel, particularly in the architecture of the churches. I was pleased to be able to convert a visitor to the delights of Mister Snek and, in particular, the Chicken Deluxe.
When winter finally came . . .
Around February the temperatures finally plunged below zero and the really winter had begun. I had thought that Ukraine, which has experienced such temperatures annually from the dawn of time, would be well-prepared for the winter. How wrong I was. When it's really icy just getting home can seem like running the gauntlet. How could they have chosen such unsuitable materials (smooth marble) for steps outside metro stations, and how does no one know about salt or grit, when even England's winter-ineptness still allows for gritting of pavements and the like? The basic mentality seems to be 'it won't happen to me'. The most treacherous night was when the temperature had warmed up just enough for rain to fall onto snow, which then froze and became like a shiny, slippery film of ice over everything, as if a tribe of giant snails had left their mark. The snow boots I'd bought (or rather had bought for me) in England were by no means a luxury, although most people seem to struggle along with normal footwear, slipping and sliding along and riding their luck as ever.
"Don't think he knows about Second Christmas . . ."
It was a rare treat to enjoy not just one, but two Christmases, on the 25th (the 'real' one) and the Orthodox one. Not only that, but a week later I was told it was 'Old New Year'. This has something to do with the change of the calendar. By now I was getting really quite confused. A friend of mine in Belarus told me "don't be surprised if there's a third Christmas and New Year".
Journey into the unknown (and potentially uninteresting)
Another friend of mine was visiting at the time and we travelled on the suburban train to Nizhin (НІЖИН). It's only about as far as Peterborough is from London but it took a good two and a half hours both ways. It turned out to be a good place to visit, and someone we met on the train gave up their afternoon to show us around the town, university and churches. The Greeks were here apparently and it had given the place a bit of a Greek feel, particularly in the architecture of the churches. I was pleased to be able to convert a visitor to the delights of Mister Snek and, in particular, the Chicken Deluxe.
When winter finally came . . .
Around February the temperatures finally plunged below zero and the really winter had begun. I had thought that Ukraine, which has experienced such temperatures annually from the dawn of time, would be well-prepared for the winter. How wrong I was. When it's really icy just getting home can seem like running the gauntlet. How could they have chosen such unsuitable materials (smooth marble) for steps outside metro stations, and how does no one know about salt or grit, when even England's winter-ineptness still allows for gritting of pavements and the like? The basic mentality seems to be 'it won't happen to me'. The most treacherous night was when the temperature had warmed up just enough for rain to fall onto snow, which then froze and became like a shiny, slippery film of ice over everything, as if a tribe of giant snails had left their mark. The snow boots I'd bought (or rather had bought for me) in England were by no means a luxury, although most people seem to struggle along with normal footwear, slipping and sliding along and riding their luck as ever.
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